Sunday, December 20, 2009

The White Tigers

(PICTURE: The graves of the 19 White Tigers.)

Everyone who lives in Koryama will tell you that Koryama is a "new city" with not much history. However, not too far away from Koryama is Aizu, a city with lots of history.

Masumi and Kensuke took me to see Aizu which has a few famous sites. The first place we went to was limori-yama, a mountain where the "White Tiger" samurai killed themselves during the Boshin Civil War. Long story short, 20 samurai, mostly teenagers, were on a mountain top and could see their castle below covered in smoke. The samurai assumed that the imperial forces had captured their castle and did the only sensible thing they could think of -- 19 out of 20 committed seppuku (ritual suicide by disembowelment). Turns out that the castle wasn't on fire at all but rather the surrounding area. The castle would eventually fall but not for a couple of weeks.

As I heard this story I naturally wondered how the 20th White Tiger felt when he found out the castle wasn't captured yet. I also wondered how the end of the story would have turned out if 19 extra samurais were there two weeks later to protect the castle.

One thing that I found really interesting at limori-yama was that Mussolini was so touched by the story of the White Tigers that he donated a monument to commemorate the event.

(PICTURE: Mussolini's donated statue.)


(PICTURE: Masumi and Kensuke in front of Tsuruga-jo Castle.)

After checking out the mountainside we headed towards the reconstructed castle. This was my first Japanese castle...but I'm sure not my last since I'm on my way to Kyoto where apparently castles are a dime a dozen.




(PICTURE: I could have been the 21st White Tiger.)

Saturday, December 19, 2009

Sake Factory

(PICTURE: Sake at the museum.)

Before coming to Japan, I was never a big fan of sake. I think the problem was that I was always drinking sake warm. In Japan they say that you should drink bad sake warm, but good sake cold (or warm). I'm gonna take a stab in the dark and say I was probably always drinking bad sake in the states.

Since coming to Koryama I have not done too much drinking. I've had the occasional beer or two but the majority of my drinking has been sake at Kensuke and Masumi's house.

Last weekend Masumi, Kensuke and I went to Kitakata. Kitakata is a small little city which is famous for both its sake and its ramen shops. There are only 40,000 people living in Kitakata but there are 120 ramen shops!

Our first stop in Kitakata was at the Yamatogawa Sake Brewing Museum.

(PICTURE: Masumi and Kensuke at the entrance to the Yamatogawa Sake Brewing Museum.)

The three of us quickly made our way through the museum, checking out the different stages of sake making. At the end of the museum was the sake tasting room where Masumi and I tried a few different sakes.

All the sakes were really good including the "fresh sake" which was cloudy and had small chunks of rice in it. It was almost like a combination of rice pudding and sake...which is a pretty good combination.

After tasting different sakes, I bought a bottle for Masumi and Kensuke's house. I figure I drank enough of their sake these past three months that I could repay them with a nice bottle.

(PICTURE: The sake master...or at least the woman who poured me some sake to taste. The "fresh sake" is on the right side of the line.)

Following the museum we walked around the town looking for a particular ramen shop that sparked Masumi's interest. We each got a big bowl of ramen and split two plates of gyoza. Between the sake tasting, delicious ramen and my penchant for falling asleep in cars, I passed out in about two minutes when we hit the road after lunch.

Friday, December 18, 2009

Japanese Herbivores

Ryan sent me this great article about Japanese "Herbivore" boys. Before I read this article I had been told by a Japanese person that the new generation of boys do not actively chase after girls. I mentioned a while ago that my school is 90% men. Out of all my students, only about 6 of 30 ever talk about girls. Remember these are college boys! That number should be at least triple that!

The article mentions modern Japanese grooming. I found this particular part interesting because the majority of my students wax their eyebrows. I often wonder if they're looking at me as if I'm a wild animal because of my bushy eyebrows.

Here's the NPR article:

The sensitive New Age man has finally arrived in the land of the salaryman. But there is a catch — a particularly important one in Japan, where the declining birthrate has caused alarm: The new Japanese man doesn't appear to be interested in women or sex.

In Tokyo on the weekends, the trendy area of Harajuku is a melting pot of urban tribes: Lolita goths bat their fake eyelashes, while the punks glower.

Away from the strutting are the retiring wallflowers, a quiet army of sweet young men with floppy hair and skinny jeans. These young men are becoming known as Japan's "herbivores" — from the Japanese phrase for "grass-eating boys" — guys who are heterosexual but who say they aren't really interested in matters of the flesh.

They are drawn to a quieter, less competitive life, focusing on family and friends — and eschewing the macho ways of the traditional Japanese male.

They include men such as Yukihiro Yoshida, a 20-something economics student, who is a self-confessed herbivore. "I don't take initiative with women, I don't talk to them," he says, blushing. "I'd welcome it if a girl talked to me, but I never take the first step myself."

Multiple recent surveys suggest that about 60 percent of young Japanese men — in their 20s and early 30s — identify themselves as herbivores. Their Sex and the City is a television show called Otomen, or Girly Guys. The lead character is a martial arts expert, the manliest guy in the whole school. But his secret passions include sewing, baking and crocheting clothes for his stuffed animals.

"I will hide my true nature," he vows in the first episode, as he sews secretly, shut away in his living room. "At all times, I will be a man — a real Japanese man," he says.

But what does that mean?

"It's not so much that men are becoming more like women. It's that the concept of masculinity is changing," says Katsuhiko Kokobun. From his perch at Guzzle, the popular Harajuku hair salon he owns, Kokobun is at the front line of the latest trends.

Over the years, he has seen more and more men coming into the salon — men who he describes as "more modest, less demanding, kind of passive; they accept what they're told." He's noticed that nowadays they're demanding more traditionally female treatments. "We do have eyebrow plucking and facials for men," he says, smiling. "Eyebrow plucking is very popular among high school boys."

It is, perhaps, no coincidence that Yasuhito Sekine's eyebrows are perfectly groomed. The changing tastes of Japanese men are quite literally what take up his days. He works for an Internet service provider and operates Sweets Club, an online group for men who like desserts. Set up in January, it already has about 1,000 members who congregate — online and in person — to debate the virtues of different brands of strawberry shortcake. It's something that Sekine says would have been unthinkable 20 years ago.

Back [in the 1980s], Japanese men had to be passionate and aggressive, but now those characteristics are disliked. Our members have very mild personalities. They simply enjoy what they like without prejudice. They are not limited by expectations.

"Back then, lots of men liked desserts, but it was considered uncool. Cool men had to like alcohol or spicy food. I've discovered my father likes eating dessert, but he never showed it in the past," Sekine says.

Put through his paces with an impromptu taste test, Sekine praises peach gelatin as fresh-tasting. He is not so keen on coffee gelatin with cream — a macho dessert if ever there was one — labeling it "retro." He believes his dessert club shows that young Japanese men are asserting their individuality, reflecting a change in values from Japan's booming 1980s.

"Back then, Japanese men had to be passionate and aggressive, but now those characteristics are disliked. Our members have very mild personalities. They simply enjoy what they like without prejudice. They are not limited by expectations," Sekine says.

Japan's top expert on herbivores, Maki Fukasawa, believes they were born from the lost decade of economic stagnation. She christened the tribe in 2006 and recently wrote a book called The Herbivore Generation, which breaks herbivores down into 23 distinct subcategories. She argues that the herbivores are rebelling against the salaryman generation of their fathers, consciously turning away from the macho mores and conspicuous consumption of that era.

"They have some feelings of revulsion towards the older generation," says Fukasawa. "They don't want to have the same lives. And the impact of the herbivores on the economy is very big. They're such big news now because sales are down, especially of status products like cars and alcohol."

She says the advent of the herbivores could bring positive changes. Herbivores may lack ambition, but they are driven by a strong sense of community and family, which she believes many of them lacked while growing up.

"In a sense, their fathers neglected their families. They were involved in Japanese-style salaryman lifestyles, going out with their bosses every night, while herbivores are closer to their families and friends," Fukasawa says.

But there are fears about the financial and social impact of herbivores. Their low levels of spending and lack of interest in sex invoke two of Japan's biggest problems: its lackluster economy and declining birthrate. Herbivores like to be friends with women — but for many, that's as far as it goes.

In the streets of Harajuku, Alex Fujita explains why he is not interested in taking it any further.

"Nowadays, women have more education and enjoy working. Women are scary now," he says.

And, of course, there is a name, too, for the economically empowered working Japanese women who know what they want: the carnivore women. With herbivore boys and carnivore girls, it seems the land of samurai, sumo wrestlers and geisha girls is remaking its gender landscape anew.

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Daifuku

(PICTURE: The last daifuku in the box.)









I've always been pretty honest about why I wanted to live in Japan -- I love Japanese food.

Usually when we eat Japanese food in the states, we have green tea ice cream for dessert. In LA's Little Tokyo in downtown LA there is a shop that sells ice cream wrapped in mochi. Without a doubt that was my favorite Asian dessert until coming to Japan. Ice cream wrapped in mochi is now tied with sweet beans wrapped in mochi and covered in powdered sugar. This treat is called daifuku and is ridiculously good.

(PICTURE: That brown paste is sweet beans.)

After the Bondai-Atami festival, Masumi and Kensuke stopped and picked up some Daifuku at a little shop that they say is the best in Fukushima (that's the whole prefecture, not just the city of Koryama). Per usual, Masumi and Kensuke knew what they were talking about. The daifuku was soooooo good...it actually took away the pain of my broken ass for a few minutes.



(PICTURE: Kensuke eating daifuku in his car.)

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

Bondai-Atami Festival/Break My Ass Festival

(PICTURE: Team Destroyers before getting destroyed.)

About a month ago Masumi handed me a flier for the Bondai-Atami Festival. I couldn't read anything on the flier but I didn't need to. On the paper was a picture of people doing tug-of-war on a sheet of ice. Yes, tug-of-war on ice. How freaking cool is that! Yeah, I know it is pretty cool. And do you know what is even cooler? The winning team of 5 got a prize of $1,000. Even without the golden prize I was sold on the event and had Masumi sign me up.
(PICTURE: Doesn't this look fun?!)

A week before the festival I was told that I was on one of two "foreigner teams." On the morning of the festival I met my teammates. We were a pretty global bunch: One American (me), one Australian, two Canadians, and one middle school student from China. Naturally we chose the strongest one amongst us to be the team captain...the middle school student from China.














(PICTURE: Notice my strategy of bracing myself against my teammate.)

I was definitely the most prepared person on my team for this event. I came with my $10 waterproof boots and my $10 snow pants I recently bought. On top of that, my skills as a hockey player would surely be beneficial to me in this event. But, uh, not so much. Turns out I was probably the worst person on my team. I'm not sure if it was the boots or what but I was slipping and sliding during every match. I was the anchor on my team but somehow kept ending up in the second or third position because I would slide too far forward. I of course also wiped out harder than anyone and currently am typing this blog post with significant ass pain.

(PICTURE: This was probably my third wipe-out. Notice that the three girls on my team are still pulling hard while I'm laying on the ground and the other guy is standing there without the rope in his hand.)

In the end, my squad made it to the second round where we lost to a team from an onsen. Overall our record was 3-2.

Here's a video I took of other foreigner team:


Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Kimono

(PICTURE: How could I come to Japan and not learn the crane move from Karate Kid?)

It was only a matter of time before I got to wear a kimono. Despite common thought, Japanese people rarely wear kimonos. Actually, I should correct that. Japanese men rarely wear kimonos. Kensuke told me that he wears a kimono one time a year. I asked my students how how many times they've worn a kimono and the consensus was that they have only worn one twice in their lives. Once when they turned 7 and once when they turned 20, both important milestones for Japanese.

Masumi loves to wear kimonos and actually takes a "kimono wearing class" every week. Basically she and other women get together and practice putting on their kimonos. From what I've been told women's kimonos are much trickier to put on correctly then men's kimonos. Well, after my cooking class at Kensuke and Masumi's house they asked me if I wanted to try on Kensuke's kimono. How could I say no?

Kensuke came downstairs with a very flat box. Inside was his neatly folded kimono.

(PICTURE: The box the kimono is stored in.)

Kensuke took out the kimono and proceeded to help me put it on. There were a number of steps to wearing a kimono properly and I really couldn't recount them now if I tried. I was very impressed though that Kensuke was able to put his kimono on me since he had never dressed anyone before. Imagine having to tie a Windsor knot on someone for the first time...if a Windsor knot had like 20 additional maneuvers to be worn correctly.

(PICTURE: Kensuke practicing on himself in order to get it right on me.)













After Kensuke started to dress me, Masumi wanted to get in on the fun. She quickly ran upstairs and got dressed in one of her kimonos. I think we can all agree, she looks much better in a kimono than I do:

(PICTURE: Me and Masumi wearing kimonos. To top off the Japanese-ness of the moment, we're standing on a Tatami mat.)

If you're keeping score at home, I can now make sashimi and wear a kimono. All I need to do to become fully Japanese is learn to speak the language and develop some sword skills.

Monday, December 14, 2009

The Teacher Becomes The Student (Part II)

(PICTURE: Me cutting mackerel.)

Everything Masumi cooks is delicious. I've been slowly but surely trying to learn her simpler dishes. One of her simplest dishes -- in theory -- is mackerel sashimi.

I asked Masumi to teach me how to make sashimi and of course she agreed. Masumi bought two mackerels and showed me step by step how to cut it.

Step one: Cut off the head by slicing diagonally down from the fins.
Step two: Slice the fish open down the middle and remove the guts.
Step three: Wash out the insides.
Step four: Slice the fish open from just above the spine.
Step five: Flip the fish and repeat step four.
Step six: Peel the skin off the fish.
Step seven: Slice off the small bones that are still in the fish.
Step eight: Slice the fish into little strips.

As I'm typing this I'm starting to realize there are a lot of steps to making sashimi! At the time it was surprisingly easy to make the dish. The hardest part was being careful not to cut myself with the knife which was extremely sharp.

Let me just recap for everyone: I've been in Japan for two months and a half and I'm now basically a sushi chef.